by Kathryn Henderson
A
new and unusual tome has entered the children’s section of your friendly
neighborhood bookstore. Eric Schlosser, with Charles Wilson, has produced a
“younger” version of his bestselling Fast Food Nation, titled Chew
on this: Everything you don’t want to know about fast food. Targeting
children ages 9-15, the book details the workings of fast food joints and, in
particular, the make-up of the food.
Outside of those with an economic interest in the maintenance of the
American fast food habit, it’s hard to imagine who would quibble with providing
basic information to America’s
kids. But the book has evoked some surprising controversy. While some reviewers
have sung its praises, others have criticized it for inaccuracy and misleading
spin. Regarding the latter, one writer claims that the make-up of fast food is
no different than the make-up of any other food, and that our inability to eat
in moderation is the real problem. It is noted that there is no difference
between a fast-food version of hamburger and fries, and hamburger and fries
prepared by mom, except that the portion mom serves is likely to be larger and
therefore higher in fat and calories.
But
what such arguments fail to recognize is that, in this writer’s view, fast food
has been instrumental in producing a major cultural shift such that we now
envision our diets very differently – we expect to eat burgers and fries on a
regular basis, and fruits, vegetables and brown rice have become occasional
tourists on our plates. It’s not just the burgers, rather, it’s the phenomenon
of Burgamerica that has landed us in the mess we’re in today.